The aroma of bubbling cheese and charred crust in Manhattan is as much a part of the city's identity as yellow cabs and towering skyscrapers. For decades, the story of the 'oldest pizza places in Manhattan history' began and ended with Lombardi’s. Yet, recent historical discoveries are now forcing a fascinating re-evaluation, challenging long-held assumptions and revealing a more complex, richer tapestry of New York's pioneering pizza scene. This isn't just about dates on a calendar; it's about culinary lineage, entrepreneurial spirit, and the very foundations of American pizza.
At a Glance: Unpacking Manhattan's Pizza Origins
- Lombardi's 1905 Claim Disputed: New evidence suggests earlier pizzerias existed, and Lombardi himself may have been an employee, not the initial owner, at his Spring Street location.
- The 1901 Revelation: Giovanni Santillo's "Antica Pizzeria Napoletana" at 53 1/2 Spring Street, established in 1901, now appears to be a stronger contender for the title of Manhattan's first dedicated pizzeria.
- "Continuously Operating" is Key: While many spots are old, few have operated without interruption. This distinction dramatically reshapes the narrative.
- A Legacy of Legends: Regardless of who was truly "first," many of Manhattan's iconic pizzerias (like John's and Patsy's) trace their foundational training and inspiration back to these early pioneers.
- Beyond the Hype: Understanding these historical nuances helps you appreciate the genuine craft and tradition when seeking out authentic, historic pizza experiences.
The Long-Held Narrative: Lombardi's and the 1905 Mythos
For generations, Lombardi's, located at 53 1/2 Spring Street, proudly held the mantle as America's First Pizzeria, founded in 1905. The story was simple, compelling, and widely accepted: Gennaro Lombardi applied for the first license to make and sell pizza, effectively bringing the Neapolitan staple to American shores. This narrative, reinforced by a photograph and decades of tradition, painted Lombardi as the singular patriarch of American pizza, even crediting him with training a cadre of future New York pizza makers.
However, the "first license" claim often overshadowed a crucial detail: a license to operate a pizzeria doesn't necessarily mean it was the first place to make and sell pizza, only the first licensed at that specific time. More significantly, Lombardi's original restaurant closed its doors in 1984, only reopening ten years later. This break in service means that, while historically significant, Lombardi's cannot claim the title of the oldest continuously operating pizzeria in the country—a distinction often, and correctly, attributed to Papa's Tomato Pies in New Jersey, which opened in 1912 and has never ceased operation.
New Evidence Rewriting Manhattan's Pizza History
The story of the oldest pizza places in Manhattan history is far more nuanced than previously understood, thanks to recent investigative research into historical documents. These discoveries don't just add footnotes; they potentially rearrange the entire timeline.
One significant finding points to a Signor Filippo Milone, who opened a "Pizzeria Napoletana" at 192 Grand Street in New York, a venture that appears to pre-date Lombardi's traditional 1905 claim. This suggests an earlier, perhaps less documented, presence of dedicated pizza establishments in the city.
Even more striking are documents indicating that the very address synonymous with Lombardi's – 53 1/2 Spring Street – was operating as a pizzeria before Gennaro Lombardi's commonly cited founding year. These records suggest that Giovanni Santillo opened "Antica Pizzeria Napoletana" at that location in 1901. Gennaro Lombardi, who immigrated in 1905 at the age of 17, likely started there as an employee, a laborer learning the craft, rather than an immediate owner. He would have acquired proprietorship at a later, unspecified date. The famous photograph featuring Antonino "Totonno" Pero and Gennaro Lombardi in front of 53 1/2 Spring Street, often labeled "1905," might actually be from a few years later, perhaps 1907 or 1909, with the sign indicating "Gennaro Lombardi Pro." (proprietor) of an Italian grocery store that also sold fresh baked pizza. The Pero family, for their part, emphasizes that Antonino was the dedicated pizzaiolo in that picture, noting the flour on his shoes as proof of his hands-on role.
These findings reshape our understanding of the earliest days of pizza in Manhattan. Instead of a single, definitive origin in 1905, it paints a picture of a burgeoning industry with multiple pioneers, where Lombardi played a crucial, but perhaps not original, ownership role at the Spring Street location.
The Enduring Lineage: Manhattan Pizzerias with Deep Roots
Regardless of who laid the first brick, the influence of these early Manhattan pioneers, particularly Lombardi's as it came to be known, is undeniable. Many of New York's most famous and cherished pizzerias owe their existence to the skills and traditions passed down from these foundational establishments. When considering the oldest pizza places in Manhattan history, it's essential to look at this lineage.
John's of Bleecker Street (Greenwich Village, Manhattan)
Opened in 1929 by John Sasso, a direct protégé of Gennaro Lombardi, "JOHN'S PIZZERIA PROT'ALBA" (a nod to Port'Alba, Naples) quickly became a Greenwich Village institution at 175 Sullivan Street. John's has maintained its commitment to coal-fired ovens and no-slice policy, a testament to its old-world principles. While ownership changed hands from Sasso to his nephews Augustine and Patrick Vesce in 1947, and then to Augustine and Joe Vesce in 1954, the original location has remained continuously open since its inception. This makes John's a strong contender for the title of the oldest continuously operating pizzeria in Manhattan. The brand did expand later, adding additional Manhattan locations and one in Jersey City between 1984 and 2008, but the Bleecker Street spot remains the historic heart.
Patsy's Pizzeria (East Harlem, Manhattan)
In 1933, Pasquale “Patsy” Lancieri, who had briefly honed his craft at Lombardi's, along with his wife Carmella, opened Patsy's Pizzeria in East Harlem. This iconic establishment quickly garnered a reputation for its thin-crust, coal-fired pies. Following Pasquale's passing in 1974, Carmella continued the legacy before selling the original East Harlem pizzeria to long-time employees John Brecevich and Frank Brija in 1991. The original East Harlem location, despite changes in ownership and subsequent licensing deals (which led to the opening of six other Patsy's locations across Manhattan starting in 1995), has maintained continuous operation, holding its place among the oldest pizza places in Manhattan history.
Beyond Manhattan: Noteworthy NYC Offshoots and Legacies
While our primary focus is Manhattan, it's worth briefly acknowledging key pizzerias that spun off from this early lineage within the broader New York City area, as they are intrinsically linked to the narrative of pizza's early development:
- Totonno’s (Coney Island, Brooklyn): Founded in 1924 by Anthony “Totonno” Pero, the aforementioned pizzaiolo from Lombardi's, Totonno's on Neptune Avenue stands as a monument to traditional coal-oven pizza. The Pero family claims it as the oldest pizzeria in America continuously operated by the same family. Despite a devastating fire in 2009, the original Coney Island location was rebuilt and reopened within a year, proving its resilience and commitment to its heritage.
- Grimaldi’s / Juliana’s (Brooklyn): The saga of Grimaldi's and Juliana's begins with Patsy Grimaldi, nephew of Patsy Lancieri of Patsy's Pizzeria, who started making pies in 1941. In 1990, he opened his own coal-oven spot at 19 Old Fulton Street in Brooklyn. A naming dispute led to him rebranding as Grimaldi's, which he later sold to Frank Ciolli in 1998, who expanded it significantly. In a poetic turn, Patsy Grimaldi later opened Juliana's in 2011 at the original 19 Old Fulton Street location, reuniting him with his beloved coal oven.
These establishments, though not strictly in Manhattan, illustrate the expansive ripple effect of those initial pizza pioneers. They represent diverse approaches to preserving tradition, navigating ownership changes, and adapting to modern challenges while staying true to their foundational roots. To truly appreciate the breadth of this culinary tradition, you might even consider extending your journey beyond Manhattan's borders, a venture you can explore further as you Plan your pizza pilgrimage across America.
Navigating Historical Claims: What "Oldest" Really Means for Diners
When you're exploring the 'oldest pizza places in Manhattan history,' the term "oldest" isn't as straightforward as it seems. It's a nuanced concept that requires asking precise questions to truly understand a pizzeria's historical significance:
- Original Opening Date vs. Continuous Operation: A place might have opened in 1901, but if it closed for a decade and reopened, it's not "continuously" operating. For many, continuous operation carries more weight, symbolizing an unbroken culinary tradition.
- Original Location vs. Expansions/Relocations: Is the historic pizzeria you're visiting in its original building? Or has it moved, even just down the street? While a move doesn't negate history, it subtly shifts the experience.
- Original Ownership vs. Family Lineage vs. New Ownership: Was it always family-owned? Did it pass through different families, or was it sold to entirely new proprietors and then licensed out? Each scenario impacts the narrative and connection to the founders.
- Original Style/Equipment: Does it still use the same type of oven (e.g., coal-fired)? Are the recipes fundamentally unchanged? Preservation of method is key to a truly historic experience.
For Manhattan, specifically, this means understanding:
- Lombardi's: Original concept often cited as 1905, but strong evidence for Santillo in 1901 at the same address. Crucially, it did not operate continuously.
- John's of Bleecker Street: Opened 1929, appears to have operated continuously at its original location, albeit with ownership changes within a core group of associated families.
- Patsy's Pizzeria (East Harlem): Opened 1933, also appears to have operated continuously at its original location, with sales and subsequent licensing for other locations.
By considering these distinctions, you move beyond simple dates and gain a deeper appreciation for the complex histories behind these storied establishments.
A Practical Playbook for Your Historic Pizza Pilgrimage in Manhattan
Visiting the oldest pizza places in Manhattan history isn't just about eating; it's about experiencing a piece of culinary heritage. Here’s how to make the most of your journey:
- Start at the Source (or what we now understand to be the source):
- Lombardi's (53 1/2 Spring Street): Begin here, acknowledging the revised history. While the original closure impacts its "continuously operating" status, its foundational role and influence are undeniable. Experience the classic coal-oven pie that set the standard for generations. It’s an essential stop for context.
- Reflect on Santillo and Milone: As you're at Lombardi's, remember the newly discovered figures like Giovanni Santillo (1901 at this very address) and Filippo Milone (192 Grand Street). While their original establishments might not exist in their original form, their pioneering spirit paved the way.
- Experience the Unbroken Lineage:
- John's of Bleecker Street (175 Sullivan Street): Make your way to Greenwich Village. John's is arguably the oldest continuously operating pizzeria in Manhattan from its original opening date (1929). Order a whole pie—they famously don't sell by the slice—and soak in the atmosphere of a place that feels genuinely timeless. It’s a direct link to the Lombardi training tree.
- Patsy's Pizzeria (2287 1st Avenue, East Harlem): Head uptown to East Harlem for Patsy's. This 1933 institution offers a slightly different, equally revered, thin-crust coal-oven experience. It's another testament to the enduring craft, founded by someone who briefly learned from the Spring Street pioneers. Ensure you visit the original East Harlem location for the true historic feel, not one of the newer licensed establishments.
- Appreciate the Craft: Pay attention to the details: the char on the crust from the coal oven, the simplicity of the ingredients, the bustling, often no-frills, atmosphere. These are not trendy gourmet spots; they are historical artifacts, still producing delicious food.
- Go Beyond the Menu: Engage with the staff if possible. Many have been there for years and can offer anecdotes or insights into the pizzeria's legacy, further enriching your understanding of its place in the history of 'oldest pizza places in Manhattan history'.
Quick Answers: Dispelling Common Misconceptions
Q: Is Lombardi's the oldest continuously operating pizzeria in the U.S.?
A: No. Lombardi's original establishment closed in 1984 and reopened in 1994. Papa's Tomato Pies in New Jersey, opened in 1912, holds the distinction of being the oldest continuously operating pizzeria in the country.
Q: Is Lombardi's definitively America's first pizzeria?
A: The claim that Lombardi's, under Gennaro Lombardi, was America's first pizzeria in 1905 is now strongly challenged by recent historical research. Documents suggest that Giovanni Santillo operated "Antica Pizzeria Napoletana" at the same 53 1/2 Spring Street address starting in 1901, and Filippo Milone also had a "Pizzeria Napoletana" at 192 Grand Street predating 1905. Lombardi was likely an employee who later acquired ownership.
Q: Which Manhattan pizzeria is the oldest continuously operating?
A: Based on available historical records, John's of Bleecker Street, founded in 1929 by a Lombardi-trained pizzaiolo, appears to be the strongest candidate for the oldest continuously operating pizzeria at its original Manhattan location. Patsy's Pizzeria in East Harlem, opened in 1933, is another highly significant and continuously operating historic establishment.
Q: Are these historic Manhattan pizzerias still family-owned?
A: Some retain family ties, while others have seen ownership changes or licensing arrangements. For example, John's has remained within a close family circle, while Patsy's original East Harlem location was sold to long-time employees, who then licensed the name for further expansion. Totonno's in Brooklyn is notable for its continuous operation by the same family.
Q: Do any of these places sell pizza by the slice?
A: Historically, many of the oldest pizzerias, like John's of Bleecker Street, only sell whole pies, adhering to traditional Neapolitan custom. This is a practice worth respecting to fully appreciate the intended experience. Lombardi's and Patsy's typically offer both whole pies and slices.
Your Next Slice of History
The story of the 'oldest pizza places in Manhattan history' is far from settled, continually evolving as researchers uncover new pieces of the puzzle. What remains constant, however, is the profound impact these pioneering establishments have had on American culinary culture. From the early, perhaps unsung, efforts of Santillo and Milone to the enduring legacies of Lombardi's, John's, and Patsy's, each brick and every char on a crust tells a story of immigration, innovation, and an unwavering commitment to a dish that has become a global phenomenon.
So, the next time you crave a classic New York slice or a whole coal-fired pie, remember the complex and captivating history baked into every bite. You're not just eating pizza; you're participating in a living, evolving tradition. Your journey through Manhattan's historic pizzerias is more than a meal—it's a delicious step back in time, connecting you to the very foundations of American pizza.